Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Side Stories part 1: Beyond Angkor Wat

Besides memories, something I look forward to bringing home from a trip are stories from strangers I come across with. A big chunk of what made my recent Siem Reap - Ho Chi Minh adventure a memorable one are exactly that: STORIES.


Here's the first of the many I intend to share:

We only had one whole day to tour the temples in Siem Reap. It being the most famous one, we decided to explore Angkor Wat first. The temple was undeniably beautiful; the story behind it made its beauty shine even more. But before the day ended, we met a man named Ben, and he made Angkor Wat slide down from my most favorite to a second placer.


Ta Keo Temple


Ben is a caretaker of some sort in Ta Keo Temple. When our tuktuk drivers dropped us off in front of it, we had no idea we were in for a surprise. This temple is huge compared to the last couple of ones we visited and has a ‘heaven’ (i.e. tower) similar to Angkor Wat. The major difference that concerned us was the absence of the man-made staircase to reach it. We had to use the original path with steps that are too steep and narrow. Our group thought about it at first but eventually decided to climb up. Reaching the top wasn't that difficult. What scared us was the thought of climbing down.

Way up to (the temple's) Heaven


We were in the middle of exchanging nervous laughter when Ben approached us. He spoke English surprisingly well, and that was the beginning of a story worth sharing.

He told us about his job in the temple that pays a dollar a day. He's been doing it for 8 years and never gets tired of it. He said the he find the temple 'beautiful'. It was older than Angkor Wat and could have been as magnificent had it been finished. The King who wanted it done died in the middle of its construction. And even though his successor attempted to continue it, lightning struck one of its towers. This being perceived as a bad omen, the new King halted the construction. Hence, Ta Keo was never completed. But the way Ben talked about it, it was as if he looked at the temple and see what it could have been and not something abandoned. It's his favorite, he shared with us, among all temples in Siem Reap.

Even without asking, he told us about his father, his siblings and how difficult life is in the countryside. We asked him why he stick with this temple job if it pays too little and requires him to ride the bike an hour everyday to get here. His answer was simple:

It's beautiful; I like being here. When I'm alone I stare at the rocks and think how difficult it could have been for the people to bring them here, to build this. But they did.

That was enough to break my heart.



The way he chooses to look at life is beyond admirable and I couldn't help but feel shameful of all the little things I complain about back home.

Photo WITH Ben

Photo BY Ben. :)

Experience may be the best teacher. But if we limit our understanding with things we have dealt with, we'll go through this life having learned so little. Sometimes, the best lessons come from teachers in the most unexpected form.

So listen.

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