If I had an actual bucket list, surfing would definitely be on it. I’d been meaning to give it a try for a couple of years now but was never confident about my balance. A bigger part of me feels scared than excited about it.
2 years of yoga practice did wonders for my stability, so when a friend invited me to La Union (LU) a month ago, I took it as the Universe’ way of saying, ‘It’s about damn time’.
|Sunrise over sunset any day. It's so hopeful. |
We arrived at LU before 5 am. We waited until 6am before we had our breakfast, and then went back to San Juan Surf Resort. We knew our room wouldn’t be ready until 2 pm so this is what we did: We didn’t mind not being able to check-in. We left our bags at the counter, wasted no time and changed into our surfing gears. We were at the beach by 7am!
While waiting for our session, I watched the students already at it. Most of them were falling off the boards. Some of them, I noticed, were taking a while before letting go of the board even after landing both feet. Perhaps they were waiting for their stance to be more stable. Before I even allow myself to get nervous, I made sure I’d be leaving my ego at the shore. What’s the worst that can happen, anyway? Get wiped out every time? That’s way better than not trying. Plus, I’m a water baby! I’d enjoy the fall for sure. ;)
So, off we went!
|Giddy newbies |
All 4 of us were able to stand and ride the waves after the first couple of tries! We had too much fun we booked another session for the next morning.
|Waiting for waves to catch. I can do this all day!! |
San Juan Surf School took very good care of us. I must say, the instructions they gave before we hit the water were very clear. Safety measures were also well-explained. My personal coach was Kuya Toto. He was very friendly and I liked that he noticed I was athletic so he pushed me to do more. After a couple of smooth rides, he lessened his effort in pushing my board and ordered me to paddle. Also, from the very beginning, he told me that I should trust him. When he says ‘up’, which is a signal to stand on the board, I should obey all the time. I took that to heart and didn’t hesitate on a signal ride. Toward the end of my 2nd session, he played tricks on me and uttered ‘UP’ without any wave in sight. I obliged in panic and we laughed it off!
|Final wave. :( |
Learning to surf wasn’t as intimidating as I thought it would be. To an extent, I felt at ease paddling and popping up on the board. Aside from the physical training from yoga (chaturanga does wonders!!), the perspective I developed from its practice also helped a lot. From the very beginning, I made sure I didn’t bring my ego with me. The weight of that wouldn’t help anyone in anything. Also, acceptance. Accepting that surfing happens with a board on water; I will never feel as stable with my two feet on the ground like how I’m used to. If I wait for that kind of stability, I’ll reach the shore still holding on the board. In spite of the unsteadiness, I chose to trust, paddle, push, pop up, balance and ride the wave.
Oh, and to have fun, too, of course!
There’s a reason why stoked is so commonly used in reference to surfing. I can’t wait to do it again!
|Lucky to share the same kind of crazy with this guy :)|
|This guy, though, is a god. Fangirl mode!|